Leave the oceans behind and take a cruise down narrow waterways to some of Europe’s most stunning cities
’My dangling high above the vine- yards of the Rhine
Valley in a cable car, outside Rüdesheim am Rhein, a picture-perfect tradi-tional German town.
Think winding cobblestoned streets, low-roofed taverns serving beer and shabby sou-venir shops with latticed windows. This is the home of Riesling wine and below me is mile upon mile of vineyards, stretching across rich, slop-ing land. The grass is bright green and the vine stalks yellow at this time of year. The sky is cloudless and blue. It’s October, warmer than usual at 22 degrees, and the sun is shining.
I can hear a chorus of bird- song and the faint hum of a small boat as it chugs along the expansive Rhine river in front of me. In the distance,
the Scenic Jasper, the luxury river cruising ship that has become our home in recent days, is moored. This is one of the stops on the Jewels Of Europe Scenic river cruise, which begins in Amsterdam and ends in
Budapest, visiting, among other stops, Cologne, Nurem- berg, Vienna and Bratislava.
It’s no ordinary river cruise, however, but a luxurious five- star experience, on which every detail has been planned meticulously.
Cruises are enjoying a renaissance in recent years and, contrary to popular belief, are not just for older people.
A river cruise is an altogether more personal experience than a cruise at sea, where the ships typically carry thousands of passengers. The Scenic Jasper holds a maximum of 163.
This means you get to know not just the passengers, but the crew, which creates a great sense of camaraderie. Many of the passengers come from
Australia or America. Our crew couldn’t be more welcoming and attentive, greeting us with smiles when we board, and this level of
VIP treatment continues for the duration of our journey. From the pretty receptionist who compliments my outfit, to the charming wait staff in the dining room and the
friendly barmen, they make
On boarding, I’m shown to my deluxe balcony suite cabin which has a comfortable double bed, a dressing table and ample wardrobe space.
There’s a minibar, a TV with a wide selection of movies, a rainforest shower and ESPA toiletries in the bathroom, as well as a balcony with elec-
tronic windows.
You can choose to shut out the world and watch a movie, or sit and marvel at the changing landscape of the shoreline dreamily passing
by, as the ship rhythmically moves through the water. Equally, you can relax in the lounge with its floor-to-ceiling windows, or take time out in the salt therapy room or the fitness area. The best views of the passing scenery are from the roof of the ship, which has comfortable seats and loungers, and a jacuzzi.
Every cabin has a designated butler. Mine is named Cosmin and no task was too much for him at any hour of day. I needed a dress pressed; I fancied a glass of champagne in the afternoon; I couldn’t work the TV — I simply called Cosmin.
All of the meals and beverages are included in the package and the food is second to none. There are five different dining venues, ranging from casual to fine dining and you can choose to dress accordingly.
The food is exceptional at all times. On one of the nights we enjoy a mouth-watering seven-course tasting menu, paired with complimentary wines, at the Table La Rive.
The tuna tataki with gravlax, black olive bread, served with wasabi foam and a cream cheese sphere is noteworthy, as is the dessert which takes the form of a lime mousse with sponge and berries.
While the ship itself is impressive, part of the beauty of the trip is the multiple activities on offer at each destination — all of which are included in the price. In Amsterdam, for example, some of the passengers opt
ceiling windows, or take time for the Flavours of Holland walking tour, while I choose a glass-topped boat cruise through the canal ways.
It proves the perfect, relaxing way to view the city. From the boat, you can see row upon row of oddly-shaped narrow buildings, some a lit-
tle wonkier than others. Our guide provides information on the city as we travel. We pass Anne Frank’s house and I stare at the attic window, thinking of how the teenager and her family were holed up there for years during World War II. Afterwards, I wander the narrow cobblestoned streets of a misty Amsterdam, passing by the famed coffee shops and marvelling at the elegant houses which belonged to rich merchants at a time
when Amsterdam was one of the wealthiest ports in the world.
The following day, on approaching the city of Cologne, I choose a cycling tour, while others go on a historic walking tour. The ship docks approximately 27km outside the city and we disembark and get on electric bicycles. I’d never ridden an electric bike before, but once I get the hang of it, oh the joy! You can choose to pedal or simply turn up the electric gears and find yourself speeding along with little effort.
The novelty was not lost on our group of adults, all of whom become as giddy as children who have just learned to cycle. One American, I’m guessing in his 60s,speeds by me singing Doe a
Deer from The Sound Of Music as we traverse the breathtaking scenery of the Rhine Valley. Here, the land is mostly flat. I can see fields
of crops and small farms in the distance. The air is fresh and the Rhine glistens in the October sunlight.Some members of the group fall behind, while others cycle energetically ahead,
but the sequence of cyclists changes as we weave our way along the path. We chat and laugh together, high on the sheer pleasure of cycling in such a beautiful destination.
We stop halfway at a traditional German tavern, which is empty in the early afternoon. Here, we sit outside and drink a glass of strong
German beer. Getting back on our bikes we laugh as we wobble a little, but as we approach the city of Cologne, our enthusiastic young guide
is telling us how it was founded by the Romans in 50AD, has a rich Jewish heritage and how much of it was bombed during World War II.
The approach to Cologne along the increasingly wide banks of the river is spectacular. The fields and forests fall behind and I can see the
imposing Hohenzollern Bridge and modern architecture of the city ahead of us.
Our destination is Cologne Cathedral, in the heart of the city, and this iconic Gothicstructure does not disappoint. Getting off my bike, in the square outside, I crane
my neck and marvel, not just at the height of its twin filigree towers, but at the intricate detail of the architecture. Inside is equally impressive, with some of the most beautiful stained glass windows I’ve ever seen and elegant Gothic architecture.
People speak in hushed tones and there’s a deep sense of peace here, among the statuesque columns, in stark contrast to the bustling atmosphere outside.
We’re back on our bikes now and speeding over Hohenzollern Bridge, an enormous iron structure which straddles the city, offering panoramic views.
Here, approximately 40,000 love locks are attached to the iron railings. As I speed by them, I think of the loved up couples who attached them, and how each has a
different story to tell.
While the cycle is a high-second place with my experience the next morning as I wake to find that the river has widened considerably. I’m travelling through the Rhine Gorge, a Unesco World Heritage Site. Our guide the
night before had spoken of castles and stunning scenery, but nothing quite prepares you for the views. It’s best described as floating through a movie set, with quaint timbered houses with triangular roofs and chalets, close to the river bank and behind them soaring mountains.
Every now and then, a turreted castle, straight out of a fairytale, comes into view on the sloping misty mountains above. We pass by Lorelai’s Rock, where legend has it sailors were lured to their death on treacherous rocks
by an enchanting siren. The sun comes out from behind the clouds and lights up the green fields and yellowing vineyards of the Rhine
Valley as the Scenic Jasper carries us effortlessly to our next destination. Honestly, the cruise is worth taking for this experience alone.
TRAVEL FACTS
Direct flights from several Irish airports with Aer Lingus, and transfers to and from the ship are included in the cost.
The five-day all-inclusive luxury Scenic River Cruise from Vienna to Bratislava to Budapest costs from €2,050pp.
This includes all meals, drinks, activities and a personal butler service.
The Travel Suite creates bespoke luxury holidays, designed to your requirements.
This a personal service which helps you decide on the perfect destination and craft a tailored itinerary.
BY ERIN McCAFFERTY
