Ruth O’Mahony’s Experience in Malta

Thursday 20th April:

We had a very early start on our first morning as we flew from Dublin Airport at 7:35am! The flight took just over 3.5 hours and afforded spectacular views as we crossed the Mediterranean Sea from high above. On arrival in Malta, we were whisked off to our luxury accommodations at the magnificent Hilton Malta in PortoMaso. Having unpacked and freshened up, we had time to explore the hotel and its facilities before taking a walk around the harbour area with its wonderful contrast between luxury yachts and traditional Maltese fish boats.

Dinner this evening was at Hammett’s Monatik located on the seafront at Sliema. Hammett’s Monastik is a local, modern continental European dining experience, offering a modern take on traditional dishes from mainland Europe. The focus lies on sustainability by using seasonal crops by local farmers and preserving produce for when it’s not in season, as well as not wasting any bit of meat to serve simple yet delicious meals. The produce is therefore very seasonal and thus conservation practices such as fermentation and pickling are used to keep the summer farm and foraged food throughout the whole year.

Friday 21st April:

This morning we enjoyed a relaxed buffet breakfast at the hotel which offered both Inside and Al Fresco dining options. The breakfast offering was fresh and varied with a wide selection of fresh fruits, cereals, pastries and hot items as well as fresh to order items such as Poached Eggs and Omelettes which are always a favourite. 

Having eaten our fill, we met with our guide Clive to embark on the day’s adventures, the first of which was a Segway Tour from the Buskett Gardens to the Dingli Cliffs with Segway Malta. While a little apprehension was felt throughout the group beforehand, as it was a first segway experience for everyone, after a little practice we were all soon in our element and undertook a hugely enjoyable trip to the Cliffs where we enjoyed the magnificent views before venturing through the countryside including lots of little villages and towns enroute back to the Buskett Gardens which in themselves is worth a visit.

This experience offered the most amazing views, stretches of idyllic country-side and lots of fresh air. It was certainly a highlight of the trip for everyone!

Following our Segway adventure, it was time to continue on to Mdina. Lamp-lit by night and referred to as “the silent city”, Mdina is fascinating to visit for its timeless atmosphere as well as its cultural and religious treasures. The city is one of Europe’s finest examples of an ancient walled city and extraordinary in its mix of medieval and Baroque architecture. We were taken on a walking tour through the narrow streets, some of which have been used as filming locations for multiple movies such as Gladiator, Troy and Assassin’s Creed and TV shows such as Game of Thrones! 

With such a busy morning, the time finally came for lunch and we were not disappointed in the slightest by The Medina Restaurant. Hidden away in the enchantingly narrow streets of the city is this characterful 500 year old restaurant. Some of our group dined beneath a vaulted stone ceiling while the others soaked up that serene ambience of the internal courtyard while the enjoyed the delights on offer. Local ingredients underpin the well-executed dishes which exhibit subtle modern twists. Located just off Mdina’s main Cathedral Square, in one of the Silent City’s typical winding alleys, this restaurant is a jewel of an eatery, flooded with natural charm.

After lunch, it was time to visit the Palazzo Falson, a medieval townhouse which was purposely built as a family residence by the Maltese nobility and is named after the Falson family. It is the second oldest structure still standing in Mdina, parts of which date back to the 13th century. 

In 1927 the Palazzo was bought by Olof Frederick Gollcher, an artistic man who was a passionate collector of objets d’art. His collections included paintings, silver, furniture, jewellery, oriental rugs and armoury, among others. One of the highlights of the collection is an original One Handed Clock.

Gollcher wanted his house to be preserved with its contents as a museum open to the general public, and in his will he left instructions for the setting up of a foundation bearing his name that was to carry out this wish. Following a five-year intensive restoration exercise, Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum opened its doors to the public in May 2007, and has already established itself as one of Malta’s foremost cultural attractions. The wonderful success of this cultural attraction is its ability to bring together these hidden treasures, staging them perfectly in sumptuous surroundings, and making them accessible to the viewing public.

After a full day of exploring, we returned to the hotel to freshen up before dinner which was enjoyed at 59 Republic. Situated just steps away from the historic Grandmasters Palace Square, located in the stunning vibrant capital city Valletta, 59 Republic has quickly become Valletta’s number one restaurant for fine dining.

Brimming with creativity and a passion for food, Executive Chef, Maria Sammut focuses her menus on fresh seasonal produce with innovative flavours. The restaurant is committed to bringing a new menu every 12 weeks absorbing international style, local flavours, tastes and trends. 

We were firstly offered a drink from the extension Wine & Cocktail menu before a precession of Sharing Starters came to the table with the aim that everyone could try everything! Each dish was more beautiful and delicious than the last and following an exquisite main course, no one had room for dessert which is almost unheard of! It was really a wonderful meal in a stunning location on the square.

The night was rounded off by a Rooftop party at Gracy’s Brasserie which offered a spectacular view over the city of Valletta!

Saturday 22nd April:

After breakfast this morning we boarded the bus and headed to the pretty seaside town of Marsaxlokk with its seemingly endless brightly coloured Maltese fishing boats and lovely water side cafes. Before taking a tour of the harbour, we first visited the Tulliera Organic Farm, a thriving farm focussed on promoting authentic Maltese farming that is indigenous and sustainable. Before becoming custodians of the Tulliera land, it was a degraded area in the south of Malta that had illegal structures and was being used as a bird trapping and hunting site. The labour of love to transform this magnificent piece of land hugging the sea, began with clearing the area from rubbish and scrap, and the removal of bird trapping equipment. Eventually, the land became equipped with a large water reservoir, agricultural stores, greenhouses, a chicken farm, a goat farm and plenty more. And the farm continues to grow and evolve every day.

The farm produces premium products of organic origin, sustainable and homemade. For example, sea salt is sold as is and it is also the preservative in the preserves made from their crops. And the local bee breed produces honey as well as beeswax for their candles, soaps and creams. The goat farm not only produces dairy products, it is itself an attraction as the Maltese Goat is being revived from near-extinction. While I hadn’t known what to expect on this visit, I was blown away by the passion of this local family and their endeavours. Following a tour of the entire farm, including the Greenhouse where the Strawberries were plentiful (and absolutely delicious!) We were lucky enough to enjoy some more of the Farm to Fork delights for lunch and to visit the animals that are so lovingly looked after on the farm before heading back to the harbour.

While out trip around the harbour was relatively short, we did get to see the lovely village of Marsaxlokk from a completely different angle and to enjoy the sunshine and sea on a beautiful Saturday afternoon.

The next stop on our tour was the San Niklaw Estate & Winery where the wines are crafted from fruit sourced from six small individual parcels of estate vineyards. The estate is composed of vineyards, an olive grove and a boutique winery and underground cellar dating back to the late 19th century. The philosophy at San Niklaw Estate is to produce hand crafted estate grown wines of premium quality while reflecting the local terroir. Four estate wines are produced each year and these include Contrada ta Fangu, a Syrah based wine, Despatch, a Sangiovese based wine, Kappella San Nicola, a Mourvedre based wine and a Vermentino called Neptunus. We were lucky enough to sample all of these during our visit and all were paired with different small plates which were the perfect accompaniment.

The final stop on today’s tour was back in the central business district of Malta at the Farson’s Brewery Experience – Home of Cisk where we discovered the rich story behind one of Malta`s favourite beers and brands.

Having gone through the exhibition with is vast array of displays and information, we found ourselves at the Cisk Tap. Located on the penthouse of The Brewhouse, The Cisk Tap enjoys panoramic views of this beautiful sunny island, a sight only made better by a pint of its liquid gold.

Dinner this evening was enjoyed in the Oceana Restaurant at the Hilton Malta where, every Saturday evening they offer a Buffet Style dining experience which gives its patrons the opportunity to sample authentic Mediterranean cuisine and feast on a variety of freshly prepared dishes in a bright and airy dining room. Of course Al Fresco seating options were available off the main dining room for those who wanted to enjoy the spectacular sea views while sampling the local fair. 

Sunday 23rd April:

We had an early start this morning as we headed for the island of Gozo by ferry. Almost as soon as the ferry pulled away from the dock, the fantastic views began. The island soon came into view with its steep cliff faces and inviting blue lagoons. The ferry itself was very comfortable with plenty of inside as well as top deck seating and was equipped with a small short for any drinks or snacks that might be required.

On disembarking the ferry in Gozo, we discovered that we would be travelling around the island in the usual Coach but instead would have the pleasure of spinning around in TukTuks which was great fun! Our first stop on the tour of the island was the Tal-Mixta Cave, a picturesque cave high up in the hills of Nadur. The cave essentially acts as a window for one of the grandest views you’ll ever see in Malta. Through the wide crevice of the cave, visitors witness a breathtaking panorama of Ramla Bay, one of Gozo’s widest and most famous beaches.

After taking in the amazing views, we got back in the TukTuks and headed for the Ġgantija Megalithic Temples inside the Ġgantija Archaeological Park which consists of two structures built between c.3600 and c.3200 BC.

Considering its age, the monument survives in a good state of preservation. The skills of the Neolithic builders are preserved here in the form of inner furnishings, such as doorways, altars and decorative slabs. Two plaster fragments with red ochre, now on display at the Ġgantija Archaeological Park Interpretation Centre suggest that the internal walls were plastered and painted over.

Remains of animal bone discovered in this site suggest communal rituals and feasting. The use of fire is shown by the presence of stone hearths. A number of libation holes in the floor may have been used for the pouring of liquid offerings. It is probable that during ceremonial activities, the congregation would have assembled outside the monument, since the large forecourt in front of the two structures was purposely raised by the same builders. It really is a remarkable place to visit and our wonderful guide was able to bring it all to life with a passion only a true Maltese citizen could invoke.

From here, we set off for the main city of Gozo, Rabat and its magnificent Citadel. The Citadel is visible from almost all the Island, rising steeply above the surrounding countryside.

It owes its roots to the late medieval era, but the hill has been settled since Neolithic times. For centuries, the Citadel served as a sanctuary from attack by Barbary corsairs and Saracens. Until 1637, the Gozitan population was required by law to spend their nights within the Citadel for their own safety. In later, more peaceful times, this restriction was lifted and people settled below its walls, creating the prosperous town of Rabat, now known as Victoria.

Victoria is not just the geographic heart of Gozo, it is also the centre of everyday activity. It manages to combine the bustle of its market and shops with a relaxed and sociable atmosphere. It is a great place to watch the Islanders go about their day, especially when the main market square, It-Tokk, comes to life.

We took time while here to browse around Victoria’s market and narrow winding streets and found everything from delicious fresh produce, cheeses and wines, to antiques, craft goods, fishing nets and knitwear.

For lunch, we enjoyed a locally sourced picnic in the shade of the obliging Olive Trees before making our way to the final stop of the day before taking the ferry back to Malta, Dwejra Bay with its magnificent rock and cliff formations and of course it’s hidden Blue Lagoon. Dwejra is also home of the Fungus Rock or, as it is locally known, “Il-Ġebla tal-Ġeneral”, General’s Rock. It is so called in remembrance of the Italian General who centuries ago fell to his death while supervising quarrying in the area. History tells us that a special plant believed to have medicinal and healing properties used to grow on Fungus Rock and because of this the Rock used to be heavily guarded during the era of the Knights of Malta. Anyone caught stealing the crop was sentenced to death or to a life rowing the Knights’ galleys. The crop was picked and brought to the mainland using a primitive system of baskets and pulleys.

The Blue Lagoon is enough to take your breath away with colours as vivid and water as clear as I had ever seen. No photograph could ever do it justice!

We made our way back to the port and caught the ferry as planned back to Malta. For the final night of our trip, we got all dolled up and headed to Valletta for a Gala dinner which was held at ‘Oka at the Villa’. The Villa itself is an imposing 19th century palazzo, which used to be the summer residence of one of Malta’s leading 20th century industrialists and one of the oldest structures in the Balluta area. OKA’s at The Villa provides all-day dining within a relaxing atmosphere, accompanied by unparalleled views of Balluta bay, gorgeous interior design and grandiose terraces and gardens. For our event, we dined on one of those grandiose terraces with the spectacular backdrop of Valletta behind us. While we were dining from a set menu, each dish was absolutely delectable and a very enjoyable farewell evening was had.

Monday 24th April:

After one last breakfast in the Oceana Restaurant at the Hilton Malta, it was time to say goodbye to new friends and make the journey back to Ireland. It wasn’t so sad to leave however, as I knew I’d be going back!

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