Vis

Vis lies 60 kilometres offshore from Split — the furthest of the inhabited central Dalmatian islands from the mainland — and that distance has been its greatest protector. Cut off from civilian tourism until the early 1990s by its role as a Yugoslav Navy base, Vis developed none of the resort infrastructure that proliferated on closer islands, and the result is an island of remarkable authenticity, excellent food culture and some of the most beautiful and uncrowded beaches in Croatia.

Vis Town (Vis) and Komiiza on the west coast are the island’s two main settlements — both small, characterful fishing towns of Venetian-era stone buildings, excellent konobas (traditional Dalmatian restaurants) and a relaxed harbour atmosphere that represents Croatia’s coastal life at its most genuine. The local cuisine is outstanding: pogaca com saldom (a focaccia-style bread stuffed with salted anchovies), fresh-caught fish, the excellent Vugava white wine and the Viska Pogaca pizza-like pastry are all local specialities.

The sea around Vis is considered among the clearest in the Adriatic. The Blue Cave (Modra Spilja) on the neighbouring island of Bisevo is one of Croatia’s most extraordinary natural phenomena — sunlight refracting through an underwater entrance to bathe the cave interior in an electric blue light. Stiniva Cove, a secluded beach accessible through a narrow gap in the cliffs, was named Europe’s best beach in 2016 and remains an extraordinary swimming spot. Srebrna and Milna beaches on the north coast offer excellent swimming in calm, turquoise water.

Vis is best visited June to September. The island’s limited accommodation — mostly private apartments and a small number of boutique hotels — should be booked well in advance for peak season.