Split is built around and within Diocletian’s Palace — a vast Roman complex completed around 305 AD as the retirement residence of Emperor Diocletian, who was born near the city. The palace walls enclose a bustling neighbourhood of narrow alleyways, squares, churches and restaurants where over 3,000 people live inside a structure that is both UNESCO World Heritage site and functioning town centre. It is one of the most remarkable urban experiences in the Mediterranean. The Peristyle, the palace’s grand ceremonial courtyard, is the social heart of Split — a cafe-ringed square of Roman columns where locals meet for morning coffee in the shadow of the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, itself converted from Diocletian’s octagonal mausoleum. The Vestibule dome, the Temple of Jupiter and the subterranean palace cellars (which provided the location for several Game of Thrones scenes) are further highlights of an exceptional ancient site that is freely accessible. Beyond the palace, Split’s Riva waterfront promenade, lined with palm trees and cafe terraces facing the harbour and the mountains of the Mosor range behind, is one of the most pleasant waterfront walks in Dalmatia. The Marjan Hill above the city offers hiking, cycling and cliff swimming in a verdant forested park with panoramic views across the islands. Split is the main ferry hub for the Dalmatian islands — regular services connect to Brac (with the famous Zlatni Rat beach), Hvar, Vis, Korcula and the Elaphiti Islands. It’s an excellent base for exploring the central Dalmatian coast and islands, and a destination of genuine quality in its own right. Best visited May to September.